The bus ride from Puerto Montt, Chile, to Bariloche, Argentina, was one of the most scenic. Here in the "lakes district" of Chile and Argentina the trees grow tall and the rivers flow freely with crystal clear water. Arriving in town we checked into the most unique hostel encountered yet. A converted 10th floor penthouse suite offering nearly 360 degree views of the town center and the lake it sits on. Bariloche itself has a feeling like a european town out of the alps. A good mix of outdoor stores and chocolate shops, we were sold!
View from our dorm room
Main square
It might have been the cold weather or the rain that made any price for river rafting seem too high, but we booked it anyways prepared to get wet. An hour and a half drive and we were stepping out into the rain to put on our wet suits. Comfortable in the rain now with helmets on and paddles in hand we were all briefed and began the paddle. The river was like none we had ever seen, crystal clear emerald water twisting between steep stone walls topped with mosses, ferns and large dense forest. The class III / IV rapids were a blast and the glacial melt water in the face was sobering to say the least. Working our way down the rapids rescuing paddlers from the other boat as we went, we arrived at the end on the Chilean border. Finishing the day with an "asado" (an Argentine BBQ of a whole lamb over coals) and of course a bottle of Malbec, we were ready for the hour and a half nap back to Bariloche.
Loving the river
After ever rapid we did a paddle "wahoo" celebrating our survival
WET!
We spent a day exploring town and frequenting the chocolate shops, as well we made arrangements for an overnight horse back ride in the Sierra of Patagonia.
Shaking off the morning cold we boarded the mini bus out to the "estancia" (ranch) where we were introduced to our horses and our guide. Left to roam the snowy hillsides for the winter months these horses were half wild and although very well trained needed good direction. The views were stunning, rolling grassy hillsides covered with patches of forest with snowy mountains on the horizon. The trees were old, knotted, twisted and bleached, they grew tall and still managed to put on some green. There was no fixed trail for the horses, only animal trails and trotted down earth where cattle had frequented. Arriving at our accommodation after a few hours of riding we were delighted to see we were staying in a cabin with a river rock fireplace and not tents like we originally thought. The guide knowing we were Canadian had even hung a Canadian flag by the front door! Dinner had been prepared for the two of us (the only two guests on the ranch), chicken, sausages, steaks and lamb all cooked to perfection over coals with vegetables, tied together with a bottle of red. Lying in bed with full stomachs listening to the rain on the roof we were again happy not to be in tents.
The next morning the fast moving clouds brought sun, cloud and rain all changing within minutes. Convincing our guides we were undeterred due to our up bringing in Victoria and Vancouver (you know what we mean), we set off on the trail. Today our guide was a local gaucho and he looked exactly like you would picture. Wool knit beret, silk scarf tied around his neck, brown leather jacket, high riding boots, and of course a thick dark moustache. He knew the area better than the back of his hand, having grown up there herding horse and cattle his whole life. We had a wonderful day of riding finished with another great BBQ.
The cabin
Amy´s horse - Vida
Chris´ horse - Colé
Show off
Fly fising in the river next to the cabin. The only things caught were the trees on both sides of the river.
With 2 days to get to Ushuaia we got on the bus - 37 hours!! We were not smiling when we arrived!
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