Wednesday, January 23, 2013

ANTARCTICA

ANTARCTICA - the most amazing place on earth

Day 1 - Ushuaia and Beagle Channel

We woke up early too excited to sleep! The ship was scheduled to set to sail at 1800. Walking up the pier everyone was all smiles.We boarded our ship - The MV Ortelius. Puttin gour luggage in the room we realized we had been upgraded. Twin ensuite with porthole AND chocolate on the pillows - We could get used to this. Exploring the ship we managed to find the bar and to our surprise most of the passengers were backpackers like us. The captain joined us in the bar for a toast to the voyage and into the Beagle we went. With 99% of the passengers on sea sickness pills and patches it was one glass of complementary champagne and lights out.
Our ship the Ortelius- built in Poland, registered in Greece, owned by a Dutch company, and run by Russian crew
Overboard drill!
Heading out of the Beagle Channel

Day 2 - Crossing the drake, Christmas Eve

Chris too excited to sleep got up, found the high tech all you can drink coffee machine and made his way to the bridge. The only person on the ship immune to sea sickness he shared stories with the first mate on watch. The classic call for breakfast came over the loudspeaker, and our expedition leader Delphine announced "Good morning everybody good morning, it is now 8 o´clock and breakfast is ready in the restaurant. If you are feeling well, come join us. If you are not, stay in bed, drink lots of fluids, and we hope to see you at lunch." hahaha. Joining only a handful of people, Chris went for the buffett breakfast and I was brought breakfast in bed. Only the brave, not so drowsy and the ones who could keep a cracker from becoming a fishes lunch spent the day spotting albatross, petrols, and horizon.

Taking some waves
Albatross

Day 3 - First sight of land, icebergs and whales, Christmas Day

Waking up Christmas Day I was amazed Santa managed to find me at sea. I unwrapped a Patagonian bone handled knife that Amy had bought me in Bariloche. I had wanted the knife but Amy always talked me out of it saying it was too expensive. Now I know she had alterior motives.
With calmer waters ahead people were crawling out of bed for breakfast and lunch, and this gravol induced ghost ship was coming to life.
We had a perfect Christmas Day. Humpback whales playing next to the ship and a sighting of the first iceberg! In the afternoon between cappuccinos the South Shetland Islands appeared on the horizon. Their dark steep cliffs and ice capped tops became more breath taking as we approached.

Humpbacks on Christmas
First iceberg!!
We are headed thata way!
Land - South Shetland Islands

Day 4 - Cuverville Island and Neko Harbour
This was our favourite day! Sunshine, swimming, BBQ, penguins and amazing blue icebergs.

It was boxing day and our first day of landings on the Antarctic continent. After a breakfast fit for a lumberjack we joined all 104 passengers in the lecture room for a pre shore briefing. The group was divided 50/50 into 2 groups - "penguins and seals." The "penguins" would go to shore first while the "seals" would cruise in zodiacs. "Penguins" we were so dawning our snowsuits off to shore we went! We were landing on Cuverville island, home to the largeest Gentoo penguin colony in the area. Arriving we were speachless, there are no words to describe the feeling that overcomes you when you are sitting on the snow in the middle of a penguin rookery listening to the sound of the ocean and the penguin calls. There were thousands of penguins, half sitting on precious eggs and the others travelling the penguin highways, collecting pebbles, and going for swims. The funniest part was watching the penguins steal pebbles from their neighbours nests and bring them back to their wives!
Only the steepest of cliffs were without ice
Cuverville Island, home to the largest collony of Gentoo penguins in the area.
Skoa - he tries to steal the penguins eggs and chicks
Gentoo practicing breast stroke
Gentoo
The penguin highway

Now it was time to switch and we were off on a zodiac cruise around the island. We weaved ourselves between perfectly sculpted pieces of modern ice art, with a flok¿ pod¿ or school¿ of penguins following playfully behind. Anywhere the eye looked was snow, ice or glacier pouring into the ocean. 

modern ice art
90% of icebergs are underwater
Zodiac cruising
Amazing bergs
Can you spot the penguins¿
This group of Gentoo´s followed the zodiac around the whole island
Slippery when wet
The ship

The next destination for the afternoon was Neko harbour. With everyone accounted for the crew pulled the anchor and set off while we had our 3 course lunch. With the ship now anchored next to towering glaciers and mountains, we stood on deck and watched minke whales play in the harbour before setting out for another zodiac cruise. When the sun shone through the ozone free atmosphere nothing looked real. The scale of everything in Antarctica makes you feel like you are 1 foot tall. This continent, just the white area void of detail and the bottom of the world map was now coming into perspective. Containing over 90% of the worlds fresh water in the form of ice and snow, the 2km thick ice cap makes Antarctica the highest continent in the world. 
Loved the reflections, everything was so peaceful
Glaciers every direction you look

Neko harbour, the most beautiful evening

We meandered through the ice filled waters watching penguins eject themselves from the sea onto the icy safe haven of an iceberg. Listening to the thunderous roar of glaciers advancing and calving this place was as much of an assault on the senses as Las Vegas.

Ice filled waters

Beaching the zodiac we stepped onto the Antarctic continent! The sun was shining and it was about 5deg. With a short hike up the snow to a stunning viewpoint of the glacier we sat and watched for calving. A couple creeks and moans but no movement. 

Wait for me!
"Kids, no running on the highway!"
Yoga time
The ship looks so small from the viewpoint



After the hike back down to the water we were sweating in all our layers, good thing we were wearing bikins under our longjohns  - it was swim time!
We decided that a polar swim was necessary even though the water was -1 !!!
AAHHHH - burning
The penguins were so curious
So cold!
After a much needed shower we were invited to the top deck for an open bar BBQ. Eating a plate of prawns and steak, watching an avalanche pour down the mountain side, and sipping a cold beer while the sun is shining at 2100 was a great way to end the most amazing day of our lives!
BBQ on the top deck, and there was an avalanche right next to us!

Day 5 - Lemaire Channel, Petermann Island and 
Vernadsky station

The itinerary said we would pull the anchor at 0400, so when the chain rattled our forward cabin it was time to get up. Heading up to the bridge we were among the only few up so early, and lucky us to see the only orca whales of the trip. Overnight a light cloud had rolled in and given everything an erie blue accent. With the captain on the bridge, the crew threaded the needle between icebergs through the narrow Lemaire Channel. Hitting a few car sized bergs along the way was enough to make the whole ship shudder.
Lemaire Channel

Next stop Petermann Island. This island was home to Gentoo and Adelie penguins, along with nesting Blue-eyed Shags. Kicking our legs out of the zodiac we set foot on the rocky shore. Walking along the snow past Gentoo and Adelie penguin rookeries, we watched newly hatched chicks getting a pre digested meal from mom.
Crabeater seal with a wound inflicted by a leopard seal
Baby Adelie penguin
Blue-eyed shag
"what you lookin at¿"
Baby Gentoo

From a height looking over the backside of the island we pulled out the camera and right infront of us a huge iceberg shed a third of its mass into the sea making a loud crash and a tsunami which caused surrounding icebergs to pitch and roll.
An iceberg in the background broke completely in half right after this picture


Off to Vernadsky station, a Ukraine research station where 10 men are spending an entire year.
Heading out for a zodiac cruise we were circling icebergs when we came across this leopard seal chilling on an iceberg!

Leopard seal showing off his teeth. Later in the Antarctic summer season the Leopard seal will feast on the new curious penguin chicks making their way to the sea.

Show off!
0030 and still light out, we had 24 hours of daylight

Day 6 - Paradise Bay and Port Lockroy

Waking up in Paradise Bay it was lightly snowing and the reflections were incredible. Starting with a zodiac cruise we crashed through small icebergs to make our way as close as we could to the glacier. Hauling up a piece of clear glacial ice for a scotch later this evening, Chris decided he will only drink scotch on the rocks if the rocks are older than the scotch. 
Tiny zodiac next to glacier

On land we hicked up to a viewpoint and then slid all the way back down on our bums!
"Nice to meet you too."
Seeing them swim under water was incredible, they are little torpedoes!!

Day 7 - Deception Island and Half Moon Island

Another tight squeeze for the crew through a narrow channel and we were in Whalers bay on Deception Island. This volcanic Island had many whaling stations in its day and you can still see the remains.
Heading into the narrow opening of Deception island
Old whaling containers, they used penguins to fuel the burners rendering whale blubber to oil.

Half Moon Island was our last landing of the trip. This Island had almost all species of animals we had seen on it, including the Chinstrap penguin and Macaroni penguin. One of our favourite places it was a wonderful last landing. Antarctica we will miss you!!
Weddell seal
Chinstrap penguins
Penguin highway, steer clear!
The one Macaroni penguin we saw in the middle of a Chinstrap rookery
?HELP¿
Baby chinstrap
Chinstrap rookery
mmmmm... hungry¿
Chinstrap and Gentoo discussing sports :)

Day 8 - Drake Passage Northward

Headed back across the drake towards Ushuaia we were lucky again to have clear weather. With everyone on the boat drugged up on sea sickness pills all was quiet. Reflecting on the last 4 days we realized how lucky we were to have been to such an amazing place in the world!
The bridge
Napping :)
Albatross

Day 9 - Drake Passage and Cape Horn, New Years Eve

Seeing the mainland ahead early on New Years Eve we all went to the deck as we passed by Cape Horn. Setting anchor in the Beagle Channel for the night we had a lovely New Years Eve dinner and then proceded to the roof top to party! Dancing with our expedition leaders and the Russian crew was a New Years Eve to remember.
Rounding the horn
Cape horn in the background
New Years Eve dinner with our Dutch friends

Day 10 - Beagle Channel and Ushuaia, New Years Day

Delphine's wake up call this morning was not appreciated! After the party the night before, morning came to quickly to pack our bags and say by to everyone. A trip we will never forget.
 
Saying bye :(
Ushuaia

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