Macchu Pichu is one of those sureal near imagionary places in the world. After it was re-discovered in 1911 it has gained popularity and you can hardly mention Peru without Machu Picchu. It is not every day you run into someone who has been there once let alone twice but this expedition was Amy`s second. Booked months in advance with available days disappearing like krispy kream donuts we got our departure date for the Inca trail.
Picked up at our hostel we jumped on the bus where we got the first look at our "family" for the next 3 nights and 4 days. A group of sixteen individuals from around the world........ almost. There were two Dutchmen, an Irish couple, an American and the rest of us were Canadian..... well, from Alberta. There were also 3 guides and 16 porters who carried everything from your tent and sleeping pad to your breakfast.
Our family
Arriving at our starting place (km 82 in Ollantaytambo) Amy started having flashbacks of when she was there 4 years ago embarking on the same journey. "This time I know what`s in store" she said "the amazing and the leg burning". With excitement and energy we started down the trail to the first check point where we had our passports stamped. The first day was relativly relaxing, hiking the trail through a vallery of shrubs and cactai interupted only by a quick stop for a 3 course lunch of soup, pasta and tea prepared by the porters. Winding our way through the valley we passed Inca ruins nestled under large inspiring mountains. Arriving at the first camp our tents were set up and tea was ready. Amy having hiked the trail before already had a small following in our group, common questions were: Are we there yet? How many hills are there? Do you know what is for dinner? and what is the hardest day? I had heard alot about the infamous "day two" from Amy, an impressive 1300 m altitude gain to 4200 m above sea level through "Dead Womans Pass" before decending 800 m of altitude into the cloud rainforest for the night. Didn`t sound so bad I remember thinking before going to sleep.
Across the bridge
Ruins day 1
Lunch tent
Camp night 1
Day 2, a tap on the tent and a hot cup of coca tea at 5 am has to be the best alarm clock. It was time to begin our biggest day. Starting the day with a good pase, people slowly died off and let the lack of oxygen and burning thighs succomb to multiple breaks. The pass looked so close yet was so far. Unsure if it was because she knew what to expect or if it was our good altitude pre-conditioning Amy said it was easier this time. We did it after 5 hours of straight uphill steps! Inca sized steps, now you would think these steps would be small but they are just the opposite. LARGE, so large Amy sized legs can barely make it! We summited "Dead Womans Pass" and out of breath I nodded in agreeance and uttered "it`s that bad". We decended the knee crushing stone steps into camp where of course the tents were set up and the tea was hot.
Day 2 trail
Quick break from the Inca steps
So Big!
Almost at summit
We made it!
Now for the downhill
On the third day the cloud rainforest is beautiful. Moss covered trees and bamboo line the trail while in the distance you can see Incan terraces perched on mountain sides. As the trail winds its way over mountains and through valleys you pass several ruins which we were given time to explore. While you are hiking and enjoying the sights the porters run past you with 27 kg of awkward cargo on their backs sometimes only wearing sandals. The porters are super human, where can you find people who wake you up in the morning with a smile and a hot cup of coca tea before hiking for six hours and cooking you an amazing dinner with happy hour and snacks!
Over looking Runkuracay ruins
Downhill into the rainforest
Sayacmarca ruins
Tent with a view
Day 4, a 3 am start and we arrived at the sungate only to be greeted by (for Amy the second time) FOG! Smiling at our guide Poncho he shrugged and said "maybe the third times the charm". Descending down we finally reach Machu Picchu and it is magical, the sun rises and the mist clears to reveal the lost city. As we got closer to the ruins it looks as if they are moving themselves as the first buses and trains have long arrived bringing rafts of tourists, all of which have recently showered - not the case for us. The frustration of bumping shoulders with these tilley hatted bucket listers melts away as you get lost in the ruins and wonder how the Incas were able to accomplish nearly impossible tasks in such a short span of time. We had a 1 hour tour from our guide where we learned about how the Incas used the city and where royalty slept. Seeing the many sacred locations it was nearing our time to hike the vertigo inducing Huanya Picchu.
Sun Gate...or not
Descending from sun gate
Temple of the sun
Hiking up Huayna Picchu was tough but worth it all at the same time. The extra 1 hour climb straight up gives you the most breath taking birds eye view of Machu Picchu where you really get a sense of the size. The experience was unforgetable, beautiful and went by in a blink. Sitting at the top staring at the ruins and the 3 mountain passes you just defeated to arrive there made us realize why the Incas thought this was such a sacred place.
Another hour up
Machu Picchu
Down in the town of Aguas Calientes we had lunch with our group where multiple well deserved cervezas were enjoyed. We caught the train back to Cusco that evening and Amy`s feet got a much needed shower ;)
